Man on roof installing solar panel

Solar training & advice

Find in-roof solar training, step-by-step installation guides, and frequently asked questions about solar roofing

Training to suit every need

Unsure of what in-roof solar training you need? To support our customers and our sales partners, we offer a range of in-person and online training courses to suit your specific training needs. Take a look at the various training options we offer below.

Core in-roof solar training

Do you only want to understand the basics of in-roof solar installation? Then this is the course for you. This training is in-person and is designed for those who want a top-line overview of how to install in-roof solar.

RECOMMENDED: Advanced in-roof solar training

Everything you need to become a master of in-roof Solar!

  • One day course
  • Nationwide locations
  • Good availability
  • Limited early bird discount available, sign up now!
Online training

Sign up now to access free, on-demand online training. Our online training course gives you everything you need to know about our in-roof solar in an easy-to-understand way.

How to install in-roof solar

Want a quick overview of how in-roof solar is installed? Watch the video now.

In this video we will demonstrate the install of a 2x3 array, which will demonstrate how to install all of the components required for any size array.

For this installation you will require the following tools; cordless drill driver, hammer, spirit level, tape measure, chalk line.

Before starting, install the felt and battens as you would for a typical installation, we advise tiling up to the underside of where the solar array will be positioned on the roof.

It is advisable to mark the net width of your solar array, and with a chalk line, mark vertical lines up the roof to indicate the right and left hand side of the array. This will help you visualise the positioning of the array is correct before installing and also help maintain straight lines when laying the panels.

The batten that supports the bottom of the system should be a maximum of 200mm, measured from the top of the batten to the top of the tile below. If not, you will need to use an extra batten. Ensure this batten extends a minimum of 225mm beyond your chalk lines and the end is supported by the nearest rafter.

All of our solar systems will come fully designed, with the required components for your install in one kit. Laid out here are all of the components we will be using for the installation.

Please make sure you have all the components mentioned here.

First, we will need our lead replacement roll.

Mark the batten at 225mm beyond the chalk line, this will be our indicator for the start of the lead replacement roll. Remove the backing and starting at your mark, dress the lead replacement onto both the batten and the tiles below, using the top of the batten as your straight line. It is important to follow the instructions attached to the roll for installation conditions.

Use a lead roller or the top of a hammer to squash the corrugations of the roll and ensure good adhesion is achieved.

You will now need the bottom left flashing, a bottom edge bar and the self-tapping screws.

Take the bottom edge bar and with the holes at the top, push it up against the upstand on the bottom left flashing. Ensure the bar is flush with the right hand side of the corner flashing and the left hand side of the bar is in line with your chalk line. It is extremely important to use a spirit level to check the components are level.

You may want to use a string line here for larger systems. Spending additional time here will make the remainder of the install easier.

Use the self-tapping screws to fix through the 3 predrilled holes, securing the components down to the batten. Take your time to ensure level is not lost whilst fixing.

Next you will need the bottom middle flashing, a bottom edge bar and the self-tapping screws.

Take the bottom edge bar and with the holes at the top, push it up against the upstand on the bottom middle flashing. Push this flush against the bottom left flashing and again use a spirit level to check level. Repeat this process for the number of columns in the system until you reach the final column. Continue to check level, referring back to the eaves to ensure a square system with the roof.

Next you will need the bottom right flashing, a bottom edge bar and the self-tapping screws.

Repeat the same procedure conducted to

fix bottom left flashing on the right hand side in order to fix the bottom right flashing. The bottom edge bar should finish in line with your previously marked chalk line.

It is good practice to carry out an open voltage circuit test on each individual solar panel, to ensure they are working before installation.

There are three different panels, a left, middle and right. They look very similar but have different interlocking features. You can tell which one you are using by looking for the L, M or R indicators on the underside of the panels.

First use a panel marked L for left.

Offer the panel up to the bottom edge bar at around 45 degrees and lower it down until it engages and locks in place. Make sure the cables at the top of the panel do not foul on any battens and the panel sits flat. The bottom edge of the solar panel should be flush with the bottom edge bar.

With the panel in position check to see if the fixing holes at the top fall on tiling batten. If not install an additional batten the width of the system in order to fix the panels to.

Using the self-tapping screws, fix the panel securely using both fixing holes.

Next you will need the batten brackets, two right hand brackets are required for every panel installed, whilst left hand panels also require two left hand brackets.

Hook the brackets into the grooves on the underside of the panel, you will feel it engage when correct. Install two brackets on either side of the left-hand panel, into the top and bottom most battens. Use two self-tapping screws per bracket to secure into the batten.

Next, we will use a panel marked M for middle, alongside two more right hand batten brackets.

First offer the panel into position and connect the two panels together, listening for the audible click to ensure correct connection

Now offer the interlocking channels of the middle panel into the slot of the left hand panel at approximately 45 degrees. Slide the panel down towards the bottom before flattening the panel and locking it into the bottom edge bar.

This is ideal fitting. However, you can lock into second slot where there is imperfections in the roof preventing perfect fitment. Do not use third slot, if it is sitting in the third slot seek support as there is something incorrect in the installation.

Ensure the panel is flush with the other top and bottom and secure using two self-tapping screws. Finish this panel by installing two right hand brackets top and bottom the same as previously. Repeat this process for the number of columns in the system until you reach the final column.

To finish the row use a panel marked R for right, alongside two more right hand batten brackets.

Follow the same process to install the right hand panel, again ensuring the panel is flush and on at least the second interlocking bar.

Next, we will be using the top rubber seal, seal strip 01.

The seal comes doubled up so first split the seal down the middle by pulling them apart. Starting at one side, work your way across the panels installing the seal into the seal channel, removing the backing as you go, to install one continuous seal across all of the panels.

Next we return to the left hand panel to start the second row, again using two of both left and right hand batten brackets.

Offer the panel into position below the fixing screws at approximately 45 degrees, flatten the panel and slot it into place, you will feel a positive engagement to indicate correct fixing.

Connect the two rows together, listening for the audible click to indicate correct connection.

Follow the same installation steps undertaken for the bottom row, ensuring to avoid the connector cables clashing with battens, fixing all panels twice at the top and ensuring two batten brackets are installed on every panel edge.

With all panels in the system installed we now install the flashing kit. Select a flashing right piece from your kit of parts.

These are clearly marked on the back of each piece

Prior to installation remove the white protective backing. Hook the flashing piece around the interlock of the panel and slide it into position. Install one piece per row, ensuring each piece finishes flush with its panel and overlaps the one below.

Repeat this process for both sides of the array.

Next you will need these top flashing pieces.

Slot the top corner piece into the associated groove on the top of the panel and overlapping with the side flashing. Repeat the process across the top of the system.

The top flashings should be supported by a piece of batten underneath running the width of the top flashings.

Now we will use more of the lead replacement roll.

Measure the width of the whole system including flashings and cut a length of lead replacement roll to match.

Install the lead replacement across the top flashing pieces, approximately 50mm from the top of the panels. Remove the backing and dressing it in place as you move across. Fold any excess down over the top of the system.

Next we will install the foam, otherwise known as seal strip 02.

Offer a tile into position, maintaining the correct bond to identify the best positioning for the foam, approximately in the centre between the edge of the tile and the flashing.

Install the foam up the length of the flashing, removing the backing as you work they way up and finishing at the very top of the system. Repeat the process on the opposite side.

The foam is universal and designed for all Sandtoft roof tiles. It will need to be trimmed for certain tiles and on some taller pantiles may need to be doubled up, your kit will have sufficient foam for all scenarios.

For profile tiles install a length of foam across the length of the top flashing.

Next install the rubber bungs. One of these is required at both the bottom left and right of the array. Insert into the square hole on the panel as shown here.

Depending on tile type, it may be necessary to make some modification to ensure the tiles sit flat. Where tile nibs clash with the aluminium flashing, remove them with a hammer. With flat tiles, it is also acceptable to flatten the flashing edge upstands to ensure a flatter fit.

With those modifications made the tile should sit flat. Do not mechanically fix the tile through any nail holes that would puncture the aluminium flashing. Alternative methods of fixing should be used when required.

If the tile is still not sitting flat, use a screw fixing to better hold the tile in position.

Use a tape to ensure the tile overlaps the solar side flashing by a minimum of 75mm.

Install the remainder of the tiles in the usual way, making sure to take your time on the immediate tiles around the system to ensure a good fit and any kick ups are minimalised.

For profiled tiles, it is recommending an additional strip of foam is installed along the top of the system.

Hopefully this video has helped you in installing in-roof solar panels. For more information on please visit our website.


Frequently asked questions about solar

What are the different types of solar roofing systems?

Learn more about the different types of solar roofing systems available today, along with their advantages and disadvantages. 

Do you need MCS certification to install solar roofing?

Find out what certification is needed to install solar roofing and how that may change in the future.


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